There's a reason cabernet sauvignon is a favorite among wine lovers -- it makes great, age-worthy wine.
We started with a "vertical" tasting of a classic Napa label, then a vertical pair from France's Bordeaux region. Then Sonoma, a lovely 1997 from Napa, and wrapped up with 2 from California producers better known for their Zinfandels. All of them were very good, and, with the exception of the youngest, I'd be happy to drink any of them with my next steak.
Sadly, they are all on the expensive side, but there are a couple amazing deals (the 1993 BV and the 2005 Mille Roses in particular, both still available at K&L Wines).
- 1991 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges De Latour Private Reserve Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($40, was $80 new): somehow, K&L Wines managed to find considerable stock of this older BV prestige label cab. At this price, it's a steal. The 1991 is sophisticated, all soft edges and grace, but short on fruit and just past its prime. Kinda like Richard Gere.
- 1993 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges De Latour Private Reserve Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($40, was $80 new): this was the star of the BV's, brilliant balance of sophistication, fruit, age, drinking at its peak right now. Kinda like George Clooney.
- 2002 Beaulieu Vineyard Private Georges De Latour Reserve Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($50, was $80): this one had all the non-fruit characteristics that people ascribe to cab: leather, cigar box, tobacco, espresso. A big, masculine wine, still young. Kinda like Russell Crowe.
- 2004 Beaulieu Vineyard Private Georges De Latour Reserve Napa Cabernet Sauvignon ($80): Too young, all over the place, hard to tell where this one will end up. What actor does that remind you of?
- 1994 Reserve de la Comtesse Lalande, Pauillac ($45): this is why Bordeaux's are meant to age. 60% cab, 40% Merlot, second label of the more famous Pichon-Lalande chateau. Lovely, sophisticated balance of tannins, acid, fruit -- not too much of any. A little expensive, but head-and-shoulders superior to most current Napa cabs at this price.
- 2004 Reserve de la Comtesse Lalande, Pauillac ($35): and this is why you don't want to drink a Bordeaux too young. Even after several hours in the big decanter, this was still all tannin, no follow-through. In 10 years, maybe...
- 2004 Arrowood Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon ($35): lovely cab blend from Sonoma, with a slightly lighter, more cherries than leather profile. Hard to justify the price in light of the Mille Roses.
- 1997 Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (~$25 new): charming, solid Napa cab, and a nice example of why 1997 was a good vintage and why Mondavi sets a standard in Napa cab. I wish I had 6 more of these!
- 2005 Mille Roses, Haut-Médoc ($26): Buy this Bordeaux now! Said one, "This is like the cute girl you've never met that smiles at you from across the room." 60% cab, 40% merlot, only 500 cases imported to the US. If this is what the critics are talking about when they say 2005 is the vintage of the century in Bordeaux, then count me in. Charming bright red fruit, good acidity, nice balanced tannins. And for this price, it's a steal -- I promise there is no Napa cab this good at this price.
- 2003 Saucelito Canyon Arroyo Grande Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (~$25): this is what a winery famous for Zin thinks a cab should taste like! Which means I like it! Sweeter and much more fruit than the others, very easy to like. This is a "winery only" bottle, as they make less than 200 cases of it each year.
- 2005 Rosenblum Holbrook Mitchell Trio Meritage ($25): Cab, merlot, cab franc (i.e., Bordeaux style) blend, this is another example of what a famous Zin producer thinks cab should taste like -- lots of dark fruit, soft tannins, very likeable, more like a zin than anything from Bordeaux! More an "after dinner" wine than a "with steak" wine. But tasty! Another limited production, "only at the winery or in the wine club" offering.
