24 April 2010

Wine Tasting: Alternative Whites (Riesling!)

Wine Tasting: Alternative Whites
Small crowd this time. You folks appear not to appreciate the special appeal of white wine, especially as the weather warms! The rieslings were the best of the bunch here, perfect for spicy Asian food. Unfortunately, my very favorite is out of stock at K&L Wines. Full run-down below, favorites in bold.
  1. 2007 Suavia Soave ($10.99): I think Italian whites from Soave (made from the garganega grape) are a great bargain, generally much better than Pinot Grigio for the same price. Light, crisp, clean, but not aiming for generic lemon water (common problem for Pinot Grigio).
  2. 2005 Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino ($19.95): wines from Soave labeled "classico" are the fancier stuff, from yield-controlled vineyards.
  3. 2008 Ermacora Pinot Bianco ($14.99): another tasty, crisp white from Italy, good value, a bit more body than the Soaves.
  4. 2007 Boeckel Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes ($14.99): a dry white made from Sylvaner grapes in Alsace. Split the crowd. Interesting, but not memorable.
  5. 2008 "GRÜNER by Etz" Kamptal Grüner Veltliner ($11.99 for 1L): ah, gruner veltliner (aka "GV"), very reliable, bright, crisp, inexpensive white from Austria, generally sold in the 1 litre bottles for extra bargain power! This was very good, and a total steal at the price.
  6. 2006 Bird Riesling Marlborough New Zealand ($13.99): nice dry Riesling, but not terribly memorable. 90 pts Wine Enthusiast.
  7. 2007 Cantelys Blanc, Pessac-Léognan ($19.99): Wow. A much heavier, complex approach to white than the earlier wines, fascinating contrast of tropical fruit on the nose, but clove and oak on the palate. Excellent value, much better substitute for chardonnays at this price point. 91 pts Wine Enthusiast.
  8. 2008 Cuvaison Carneros Chard ($13.99): classic California chardonnay as a benchmark. Great value, good balance, reliable producer, if you're reaching for a CA chardonnay.
  9. 2008 Karthauserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Kabinett ($25.99): the first of our three kabinett rieslings from the Mosel region in Germany was my favorite of the night, initially sweet, but then dissipates gracefully. A favorite of a recent NY Times tasting panel, and for good reason.
  10. 2008 Mönchhof Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett ($18.99): good, but a little too sweet overall, lacking the finesse and balance of #9 and #11.
  11. 2008 Philipps-Eckstein Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett ($19.99): almost as good as #9, nicely balanced between a sweet start and clean finish.
  12. 2005 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese ($29.99): I cheated and pulled this somewhat more expensive later harvest riesling from the cellar for contrast. This had the classic character I think of when I think of good riesling -- petrol on the nose, apricot and minerals on the palate. Yum!

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