Wine Tasting: Rioja

That was a great tasting, confirming my view that wines from Rioja (especially Reserva bottlings) are a fantastic red wine value. This region of Spain produces red wines blended from Tempranillo and Garnacha (grenache), along with smaller doses of less well known grapes (Graciano and Mazuelo). Here's what Wikipedia has to say about the three main categories of Rioja reds: "A crianza is wine aged for at least two years, at least one of which was in oak. Rioja Reserva is aged for at least three years, of which at least one year is in oak. Finally, Rioja Gran Reserva wines have been aged at least two years in oak and three years in bottle."

My favorites in bold.

1. 2005 Bodegas Casa Juan Señor de Lesmos Crianza Rioja @ $12.99: The only crianza bottling we tasted, and a very good value for the price. 85% Tempranillo and 15% Mazuelo.
2. 2004 Bodegas Casa Juan Señor de Lesmos Reserva Rioja @ $19.99: Same grapes in the same proportion as #1, but big step up from the crianza bottling. While it didn't beat out #5 or #6 as the crowd favorite, this had a nice balance of structure, fruit, and acid. Nothing here not to like, and for less than $20, I can't think of another red wine I'd rather have (other than #6!).
3. 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Gran Reserva Rioja @ $39.99: The most expensive and oldest of the things we tried, and it was a crowd splitter. This had the most barnyard funk, like a good French wine. Which means the wine-heads loved it, and the casual drinkers were put off. Still drinking beautifully, with good acid despite the 14 years in the bottle. One of my favorites, and a good value at $40 -- you'll not get something this good from Napa for that.
4. 2007 Viña Eguía Reserva Rioja @ $14.99: This seemed too young to me. Tannic and thin, but helped by some time in the glass. Lots of vanilla flavors, for sure. Hard to see why the Wine Enthusiast put this in their Top 100 for 2011. 
5. 2001 La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza" Reserva Especial Rioja @ $29.99: This was a crowd favorite, and also one of mine. Very bright red fruit (I'm guessing this is more grenache than the others), lots of acid on the finish, this would be fantastic with roasted chicken. On the pricier side, but a delight. Still in stock at K&L Wines (even after I bought 4 more). 
6. 2001 Viña Santurnia Reserva Rioja @ $13.99: The other consensus crowd favorite, and also my favorite of the night. And I'd forgotten it was only $14 a bottle! I've liked everything I've had from this producer -- crianza, reserva, gran reserva. All fantastic. Compared to #5, this was full of barnyard funk, darker fruits, and smoke and leather notes. So, so good. I wish I had a case (sorry, K&L sold out of this a while ago). Killer deal for the money. Easily outclasses wines at three times the price.
7. 2001 Viña Santurnia Gran Reserva Rioja @ $29.99: I really liked this as well, like the more sophisticated, taciturn cousin of #6. Definitely the same family, with all the complexity and muskiness of #6, but more restrained. Still very tasty, but at the higher price, it's more of a horse race with the 1998 ($10 more) and the de Lesmos reserva ($10 less). Very good tho, and still some in stock at K&L Wines.
8. 2005 Viña Herminia Reserva Rioja @ $19.99: The only wine of the evening that had me craving steak, rather than roast chicken. With a higher than usual proportion of Tempranillo grapes (85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, 5% Graciano), this was darker and more tanic, in a "modern style," more like a cabernet, than the other choices. But at this price, I like it a lot better than most of the cabs you could have bought. Great value, tasty, just not what I think of when I think of Rioja.
9. 2004 Loriñon Gran Reserva Rioja @ $21.99: 85% Tempranillo and 5% each of Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Unfairly punished by being last, I liked this quite a bit, probably as much or a little more than #2. Good deal for Gran Reserva. Well put together, balanced, with enough tannin to hold out till the very end.