Wine Tasting: Syrah

The idea here was to compare wines from the Northern Rhone, where Syrah is king, against some New World competitors (in this case, California and Australia). The results were educational, for sure, with both sides showing well. Which they should, considering the prices! I thought the "Incognito H" was the bargain of the evening, though the more expensive Crozes-Hermitage from the same producer took my nod as overall favorite. But there was nothing that I didn't think was very good. I'm happy to have extra bottles of almost all of them. A small turn out for this one meant that each of us got more wine to enjoy (and I didn't have to open my second bottles)!

My favorites in bold, as usual.

1. 2011 Copain "Tous Ensemble" Mendocino Syrah ($22): A perfectly nice offering from a reliable name in reasonably priced CA central coast wines. Unfortunately, it was utterly outclassed by the next wine (which, in fairness, was $7 more and 3 years older).
2. 2008 Paul Jaboulet Aîné "Incognito H" Côtes du Rhône ($29): "Incognito," indeed. Although the label only carries a humble Cotes-du-Rhone designation, the secret here lies in the "H", which denotes "Hermitage," the most exclusive area for Syrah in France. So this is a "second label" from a well-known and admired Northern Rhone syrah producer. I thought it was fantastic for the price, bringing a lot of complexity that is usually missing from New World syrahs at the sub-$30 level.
3. 2003 Paul Jaboulet Aîné "Domaine Roure" Crozes-Hermitage Rouge ($40): My favorite of the evening, showing very well, mixing complexity with solid acid, which paired well with the salumi and Italian sausage. I wish I'd bought more of this.
4. 2007 Ferraton Père et Fils "Les Miaux" Hermitage ($47): Also very good, but didn't stick in my memory nearly as much as what came before and after.
5. 2003 Guigal Hermitage ($60): The most expensive of the evening, also the most unexpected in some ways. A very soft mid-palate gave way to a lot of tannins and acid at the end. Very weird. But gets credit for holding everyone's interest (well, at least Orion's!). 
6. 2005 Two Hands "Lily's Garden" Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia ($40 on sale; $50 reg.): This one upset a lot of expectations. While it was certainly bigger and more fruit-forward than the French competition, this was also very balanced and garnered a number of favorite votes. Australia knows a thing or two about Shiraz, without copying France.
7. 2008 Qupe "Bien Nacido Hilllside Estate" Santa Maria Valley Syrah ($35): Living up to its name as among the longest-aging syrahs in California, from the winery with among the longest track records for California syrah (35 years!). The nose was fantastic, but the wine, even after repeated decantings, was still way too young, dominated by tight tannins. I'd love to try this again in 10 years, when I think it might beat the French at their own game!
8. 2011 Denner Vineyards Dirt Worshipper ($54 wine club, $65 reg): Great showing from Paso Robles syrah (well, 95% syrah, 5% viognier). Another crowd pleaser.
9. 2003 Pax Alder Spring Vineyards Mendocino County Syrah (~$50): 16.3% alcohol! And yet, came across as well-balanced, without any excess heat. Big flavor profile, but not overbearing. A testament to success with syrah in a totally different style from Northern Rhone. Interestingly, this wine maker has drastically changed approach in later vintages, embracing a  low alcohol style (which I'd love to try, based on this success). Thanks to Orion for bringing this one!