Thanks to all who helped with our experiment pairing central Texas style BBQ brisket with wine. I think the hypothesis proved out pretty well -- Bordeaux wines turn out to be a pretty solid pairing choice, although some more than others. And, confirming wisdom gleaned from previous tastings, Bordeaux wines are a great value as compared to their Napa competition. And special thanks to Pat and Cat, who not only brought the 2006 La Paillette Villemaurine, but also the soft and fluffy golden retriever, Rocky!
Here's what we had, in order, my favorites in bold:
- 2015 Le Cleméntin du Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan, Graves ($27): So we had some confusion in the numbering of #1 and #2, so for those who arrived early, this was your #2. I chose this to showcase "too young" Bordeaux, expecting lots of tannins, but was surprised by a approachable and fruit-driven example. Good, but not the measure of some of our later wines at the same price.
- 2006 Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Léognan, Graves ($27): relatively reserved and relatively forgettable, I thought, despite having a couple more years of age.
- 2009 Coufran, Haut-Médoc ($21): At the very top of the Haut-Médoc, embedded in a sea of gravel just next to the Gironde River north of St-Estèphe, sits the anomaly of the Left Bank: Château Coufran, the "Pomerol of the Médoc," so called for its high propensity of Merlot vines in a region where Cabernet reigns supreme. I thought this was still a bit young, showing a fair amount of tannic grip on the finish, but still very enjoyable. Not as approachable as #4, but nevertheless more fruit forward than most of the others. Good value.
- 2008 d'Aiguilhe, Côtes d'Castillon ($25): The consensus crowd favorite of the evening (although not for those who prefer the less fruit-driven wines), showing lots of fruit and body, but still with plenty of acid. My favorite pairing with the brisket of the evening.
- 1998 St. Clement "Oroppas" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend ($40): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, this is a Napa effort to mimic the blends of Bordeaux. I thought this was lovely, demonstrating again that we all drink Napa wines too early. With 20 years of age, this wine was showing soft tannins, lovely fruit, and more complexity than I expected. Not much acid, however, which meant this would have been better against a steak or roast beef than the fatty brisket. At $40, this is a good value for Napa, but not compared to these Bordeaux offerings.
- 2005 Malmaison, Moulis ($30): 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 24 hectare Château Malmaison in Moulis, Gironde, was purchased by the Rothschilds in 1973 and lies adjacent to Château Clarke. With this wine at #6, it was a return to the classic Bordeaux style, with lots more tannin and less fruit. Even after decanting, it was somewhat austere,. I thought is was out-shone by the cheaper #7.
- 2010 Lamothe-Bergeron, Haut-Médoc ($20): From Cussac Fort-Medoc, just south of Saint Julien, produced under the direction of Chateau Angelus, 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.
- 2006 La Paillette Villemaurine, Saint-Emilion (~$20): thanks to Pat and Cat for bringing this one! I have to admit, by this point in the tasting, my palate was not at its best. But I recall liking this one and thinking it was of a piece with the less fruit-driven style of the last three we tried.

1 comment:
Amazing. I used to drink Oroppas -- maybe even that vintage -- back in the early 2000s. Never would have guessed it would have gone this long. Partially because I vaguely remember it being a smooth, low-acid wine even on release. But there you have it!
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