26 January 2020

Wine Tasting: Costco!

Costco is among the largest retailers of alcohol in the country. And thanks to their commitment to both quality and low prices, they often have great selections available. The drawback is that this also means that their inventory is often very transitory, with bottles and producers disappearing and reappearing at completely unpredictable intervals. So, if you liked any of the bottles we had, you best jump on it. :-)

I liked all of these and intend to go back for a couple of them (the Brunello, in particular). I tried to pick out the more interesting offerings, using a mix of reviews, tasting awards, and prior experience. My favorites in bold:

  1. 2018 Soalheiro Allo Alvarinho-Loureiro ($11.49): Portuguese wine from Vinho Verde, made from a blend of alvarinho and loureiro grapes, I thought this was an excellent value at the price. Would be perfect in the evening on a warm day. A bit more body, a bit less crisp, than I expected it would be, leaning more toward tropical fruits than minerality. Still drinking well the next morning, a rare accomplishment for a white! 
  2. 2019 Craggy Range Te Muna Road Vineyard Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc ($16): sauv blancs from New Zealand are ubiquitous, but this is from Martinborough, not Marlborough, apparently a tiny AVA comprising just 3% of NZ vineyard land. The overriding impression is GRAPEFRUIT, with a hint of pineapple on the finish. Super high in acid, very dry. Might be hard to pair with food, given the incredible citrus hit, but maybe sushi? 
  3. 2016 Anaba Turbine White Sonoma Valley ($23): Interesting Southern Rhone white blend (40% Viognier, 31% Grenache Blanc, 22% Roussanne and 7% Marsanne) assembled from two family-owned vineyards. This one had a lot of body and viscosity, presenting a stark contrast from the NZ sauv blanc. I get white flowers on the nose, white peach on the palate. Robert Parker 90 pts. MSRP $32.
  4. 2017 Trimbach Pinot Blanc ($14): from Alsace, while labeled Pinot Blanc is actually 80% Pinot Auxerrois. I recall liking this, and that it showed apple on the nose and delivered as medium bodied on the palate, but otherwise made not much of an impression. Vinous 91pts, Wine Enthusiast 90pts. MSRP $22.
  5. 2017 Collin-Bourisset Pouilly-Fuissé Chardonnay ($20): Yes, the French do Chardonnay so much better than California at the same price points. Nothing profound here, but a very well-balanced, drinkable white, without the buttery notes or odd aromatics from so many California competitors. Food versatile. If all Chard were like this, the grape wouldn't have such a bad name in the lower price points. Wine Enthusiast 91 pts.
  6. 2018 Luli Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($18): the only under-$20 pinot noir I've ever liked, this is the bargain label from the Pisoni family, well-known pinot growers in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Nothing profound here, but delivers nice balance, with a core of sweetness. 
  7. 2013 Tenute Loacker Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino ($34): Now this is what I'm talking about. Like all Brunellos, this is 100% Sangiovese from Tuscany. Bright red cherries on the palate, with typical restraint for a wine that is still quite young. Perfect pairing for pasta. At this price, a bargain to put away for a few years. Robert Parker 93pts. MSRP is apparently $60+! 
  8. Orlando Abrigo 2015 Meruzzano Barbaresco ($25): this was the hardest wine of the evening to like, with tight tannins, very little fruit, and a bitter finish. 100% nebbiolo from Piedmont. Even the next day, it was all sour cherry and tannins. Probably requires food, ideally with a lot of fat, to show its virtues. Wine Enthusiast 88 pts. 
  9. 2017 Highway 12 Serres Ranch Sonoma Bordeaux Blend ($14): single vineyard blend of 34% cabernet sauvignon, 33% cabernet franc, 34% merlot, and apparently a Costco regular bottle (I was told that it was a Costco exclusive, but that appears incorrect). One taste, and I want roast beef (the mark of a successful Bordeaux blend). A steal for a Sonoma wine of this quality (doubtless in part because they can't call it a cab, because it's a blend). This smells and tastes like a quality California Bordeaux-style wine should, which amazes me at $14. I've had many $40 Napa cabs that are not this good. Still young, should age well. MSRP $32. 
  10. 2016 Bokisch Vineyards Tempranillo ($16): Lodi is an up-and-coming region in California, and Tempranillo is one of its signature grapes (the other is Zinfandel). This is the grape that makes the long-aging wines of Rioja in Spain, and this California interpretation delivers hints of the leather and tobacco that those Spanish wines are known for. But there's a lot more black fruits here, along with a lot of new oak. Not a favorite, but interesting. I bet it would pair well with deep dish pizza. 
  11. Torbreck Woodcutters Shiraz 2017 ($17): lots of dark fruit, big dollop of oak, plus a core of sweetness, ending with mocha and dark chocolate on the palate. Very much the modern international style (no one would think this was French), but very likeable at the price. Strikes me as versatile -- pizza, steak, or beef stew. Maybe even brisket! Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2019 (#32), James Suckling 93pts. MSRP $25. 

No comments: