Wine Tasting: Zinfandel

Zinfandel is my favorite varietal. But somehow, I haven't had a Zin tasting since 2013. Thanks to all who came and helped remedy that oversight.


Because Zin is not produced in quantity anywhere other than California, the state's Zin producers are not all chasing some mythic ideal from France or Italy or Spain. Perhaps as a result, there is a surprising range of Zin styles. The set we had leaned toward the lighter end of that spectrum (which is what I like), but the Day bottle (#7 in the line-up) was a representative from the dark/heavy/sweet end of the spectrum (and was the most polarizing bottle of the night). But I liked them all and can still say I've never had a Zin I didn't like.

Here's what we had, with my personal favorites in bold:

1. 2015 Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel $20: a benchmark for widely-available Zin at $20, this is always a crowd pleaser. You can't go wrong with this bottle (or with any bottle from Seghesio, really). They have a lovely tasting room in Healdsburg, too!
2. 2013 Scherrer "Old and Mature Vines-Scherrer Vineyard" Alexander Valley Zinfandel $35 ($23 in futures): This is my "house red," and I buy a case every year, putting my money down a year before it's made (and thus getting the futures discount, which makes this pretty hard to beat). Scherrer makes Zin in a light style -- think Zinfandel made in a Pinot style. This was probably the lightest offering of the evening.
3. 2007 Ridge Vineyards "Geyserville" Alexander Valley Zinfandel $30: Ridge is widely admired as a premier Zin producer, and the Geyserville field blend is a benchmark for what you deserve at the ~$35 price point.  This bottling also usually benefits from a few years of age, and this 2007 is lovely now. Definitely a more refined, food-friendly style of Zin. Pity this was my last bottle. 58% Zinfandel, 22% Carignan, 18% Petite Sirah, and the rest Mourvedre with 14.4% alcohol, and one of the SF Chronicle's Top 100 Wines of 2009.
   
4. 2015 Ridge Vineyards "Geyserville" Alexander Valley Zinfandel $38: this is the current release and the 50th anniversary of this Ridge bottling, providing a lesson in the difference that age makes. But despite the "wait a couple of years" reputation of this wine generally, this was very nice, even now. More fruit than the 2007, it only suffered when comparing the finish, where the youth and tannins were evident. This will only get better.
5. 2013 Storybook Mountain "Mayacamas Range" Napa Valley Zinfandel $35: one of the few Napa Zin producers, Storybook is all organic and a reliable producer in the more refined style. Similar to the Geyserville, this probably drinks a little better earlier than the Geyserville, but I wish it were a little cheaper. It's a lovely winery, and I highly recommend making a reservation to go taste there. They need the help after the recent fires, which claimed their entire library of older vintages.
6. 2015 Bedrock Wine Company "Old Vine" California Zinfandel $24: Bedrock is the new darling in Zinfandel, specializing in old vine heritage sites, usually in small quantities. This bottling is their least expensive Zin and the one you're most likely to find (most of the others sell out direct to club members and restaurants). This was a crowd favorite and is a bargain at the price. Bigger and bolder than the Seghesio, this also had plenty of acid, which  means it should be great with food. Think burgers! The blend is 90% Zinfandel and the rest Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Grenache, Carignan, Mataro and a few other eccentric black varieties.
7. 2015 Day "Grist Vineyard" Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (Previously $40) $29: Day is a relatively new Zinfandel project from Ehren Jordan, who made a name at Turley, Neyers, and Failla. This bottling relies on grapes from the Grist vineyard, which also is where some of my favorite Turley Zins hale from. This was the most polarizing wine of the evening, done in the big, jammy, fruit forward style that wine lovers like to disparage. I really liked it, as did several others, but some couldn't bear it -- "apple juice" was one reaction! Certainly not worth the original asking price, however.
8. 1998 Turley "Grist" Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (Previously $100) $37: so, I threw this in to see what aging does to a "prestige" bottle of Zin. Turley is perhaps the most famous producer of expensive Zin, and I've had nothing but good experiences with this bottling in more recent vintages. It also helps that Turley collectors seem to dump their wines at K&L, creating some pretty good bargains. This wine was weird. With a bit of carbonation, it may have been past its prime. But I still thought it was fascinating, and it settled down after being in the glass. I probably would not have called this as a Zin if tasting blind, but no idea what I would have guessed instead!
9. 2011 Ravenswood "Teldeschi" Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (previously $30+) $23: A great bargain from another big name in Zin producers, this was showing beautifully, striking a nice balance between the lighter and darker styles. I've been drinking this vintage over the past several years, and it really needed some time, given its relatively serious tannins. But lovely now! (but also my last bottle!).
10. 2011 Loxton Stonetree Vineyard Late Harvest Zinfandel $28: Dessert wine! Only a few producers make this late-harvest, sweet version of Zinfandel (not to be confused with the abomination that is “white” Zinfandel). Less sweet than you’d expect, this wine delivers surprising acidity on the finish, as well. Like a lighter, more vibrant take on port.